BEAUTY & GROOMING

We need to talk about how Ayurveda is being co-opted by the West

By Hasina Khatib
27 July, 2022

A clutch of homegrown brands in India are gradually reclaiming the science from the white gaze

Indian wellness is a treasure trove of healing medicines, philosophies and ideologies, but if you were to send the Instagram algorithm on a quest for #ayurveda, it would probably fetch the same results for you as it did for me: images of women serenely practising meditation against the backdrop of idyllic yoga retreats, all kitted out in copious amounts of predominantly white linen. As I skimmed over the text promising a 200-hour certification course for becoming an Ayurveda health counsellor, my mind blanked over the words and a more vivid image started taking shape instead. Of the ‘haldi wala doodh’ being taken out of the groaning hands of flu-stricken teenagers and placed in the manicured fingers of bloggers from Los Angeles with bleached-blonde hair. Of ghee’s new coronation as a superfood and khichdi’s rechristening as ‘kitchari,’ the darling of detox diets. Of complex herbs like ashwagandha rolling off the tongues of limber yoga practitioners who could only carefully enunciate ‘namaste’ until a few years ago. Ayurveda is a revered 5,000-year-old science with enough wisdom to inspire generations to come. But in the hands of a new legion of self-proclaimed practitioners, its knowledge has been divorced from its roots, appropriated and glibly repackaged for the modern consumer faster than you can say Coldplay.

“There are several people who, by undergoing a crash course on Ayurveda programmes, are turning into coaches or dieticians," says Shankara Natural's Dr Menon. 

"Abhyanga is a form of Ayurvedic therapy that involves a head-to-toe with dosha-specific, warm herb-infused oils. Today it is marketed as a spa treatment without an in-depth understanding and attention to detail," says Sanya Dawar.

The yoga-fication of Ayurveda

The notion is seconded by Sanya Dawar, head of brand communications at Forest Essentials. “The age-old science of Ayurveda has been gaining popularity with its time-tested formulations and efficacy, which is always good news. Nonetheless, we have always steered away from using the word ‘trend’ as Ayurveda is a centuries-old science; it is a way of life and not something that goes in and out of fashion. For instance, abhyanga is a form of Ayurvedic therapy that involves a head-to-toe with dosha-specific, warm herb-infused oils. However, it is today popularly marketed as a spa treatment in many hotels and resorts without an in-depth understanding and attention to detail,” she rues. The same commodification can be found in the realm of herbal teas, such as those that include ingredients such as cumin, black pepper and fennel seeds. “Unfortunately, Western consumers are not fully aware of how and when to consume these, which ingredients suit specific body types and so on, which could keep them from reaping its benefits,” adds Dawar.

Beyond the need to claim ownership of our cultural capital, attempting to halt the gentrification of Ayurveda could also help avoid the dilution of its knowledge. Dawar explains, “The last few decades have seen a considerable rise in the global acceptance of Ayurvedic knowledge. However, owing to everyone’s different constitutions or doshas, there are instances when the knowledge can be diluted with age-old traditions being modified to insert certain techniques without thinking about the consequences they might have on people. In this sense, Ayurveda loses some degree of its purity.”

“AYURVEDA IS A CENTURIES-OLD SCIENCE; IT IS A WAY OF LIFE AND NOT SOMETHING THAT GOES IN AND OUT OF FASHION”
Sanya Dawar

The threat to the credibility of the science isn’t felt more keenly by anyone than those trained practitioners who are the torchbearers of its legacy—Dr Ravi Reddy and Dr Sharika Menon of Shankara Naturals. Dr Menon says, “There are several people who, by undergoing a crash course on Ayurveda programmes, are turning into coaches or dieticians. The outcome from such consultations, which are not backed by true Ayurvedic principles, may not meet the desired expectations.” Dr Reddy agrees, adding, “Without proper knowledge of the herbs and concepts, the use of the products will not give the desired benefits and this, in turn, will discredit the system itself. Products made by unqualified people may result in some adverse reactions which will further bring disrepute to the system and dilute the authentic knowledge of Ayurveda.”

"We are a brand that has been built on ‘story-living’ rather than ‘storytelling’, emphasising and communicating our values through our behaviour rather than relying on advertising and marketing of products," says Forest Essentials' Dawar. 

The role of homegrown brands

India was thousands of years early to the wellness party, and reclaiming our cultural clout is now in the hands of homegrown names, such as Forest Essentials which became the first luxury Ayurveda brand to make its foray in the United Kingdom. Through this expansion, they hope to pave the way for greater authentication of Ayurveda’s true principles. Dawar says, “Our goal has always been to bring forth the lifestyle that Ayurveda advocates, and we have invested time and effort in developing a coherent communication strategy that resonates with our audience. We are a brand that has been built on ‘story-living’ rather than ‘storytelling’, emphasising and communicating our values through our behaviour rather than relying on advertising and marketing of products.” Another export from Indian-origin social media influencer Diipa Büller-Khosla’s stable, indē wild, is meanwhile offering its own branch of ‘Ayurvedistry’—an amalgamation of the ancient science and conscious chemistry—to help decolonise the Indian wellness movement.

While the widespread acceptance of Ayurveda has helped place its knowledge in the hands of a global audience, a conscious and concentrated effort is now required of homegrown brands as well as its consumers to dispel myths, preserve the sanctity of ancient texts and help people learn and unlearn where necessary.

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