FASHION

The shutdown of the viral Hermès Birkin Grocery Bag proves fashion has lost its sense of humour

By Shruti Thacker

23 March, 2023

Beyoncé said Birkins belong in storage. We speak to designer Xylk Lorena to understand why the cool girls are carrying its grocery bag version

Xylk (pronounced ‘silk’) Lorena was riding the subway when he noticed a grocery bag with a picture of Barack Obama on it. “I thought I wouldn’t rock an Obama bag but I would if it was Pharrell [Williams],” he says. With the help of Photoshop, Lorena superimposed an image of Hermès Birkin on a grocery bag.

If the recent popularity of luxury brands has taught us anything, it is that fashion is in its viral era where high meets low. Think Virgil Abloh’s Ikea bags or his work with Pyrex or Demna Gvasalia’s work with Champion logos or his Balenciaga Simpsons collection. “It picked up in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic because the one thing people could do during the lockdown was shop for groceries,” adds Lorena.

Dapper Dan’s (aka Daniel Day) collaboration with Gucci after Alessandro Michelle referenced a jacket similar to Dan’s bootleg made-to-order designs from the 1980s making its way to the Italian luxury brand’s 2017 runway was an exception. In the case of Lorena, that hasn’t been the case.

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"It picked up in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic because the one thing people could do during the lockdown was shop for groceries,” says Xylk Lorena. Image: Instagram.com/tania_shroff

Despite gaining worldwide attention from fashion’s cool girls like Tania Shroff and Reese Blustein among others, earlier this year, in February, the Canadian-Filipino designer lost 20,000 followers overnight when Instagram shut his account down. His Shopify account was suspended shortly thereafter. The reason? Copyright infringement—a phrase now commonly associated with the fashion industry.

Nike sued Bape, Hermès sued Meta Birkin and Adidas sued Thomas Browne. “That’s why there’s no branding on the bag, I want people to see them on the street and get into them just because they look cool. I want the concept to go beyond the brand," Lorena had told Highsnobiety

"For me, appropriation is homage without respect, perspective and energy"

"I think plagiarism is rooted in a very possessive, greedy system that insists that original creations or thoughts are made by an individual purely from their own mind when really nothing is new, nothing is ours"

But where does one draw the line between paying homage and copyright infringement? The Established spoke with Lorena to find out more.

As a designer, what is your stance on copyright infringement, and how do you differentiate between appropriation and plagiarism? 

I see ideas like music. It’s all just floating around in the thought realm and as a creator, my job is to bring that idea into the tangible world and communicate it to as many people as possible. I don’t really know how to put it into words but I think that genuine creativity that’s rooted in expression and thought is something you can feel good about instantly. I try not to be possessive of ideas or get attached to the point that my ego takes over and taints the overall purpose. I think plagiarism is rooted in a very possessive, greedy system that insists that original creations or thoughts are made by an individual purely from their own mind when really nothing is new, nothing is ours. For me, appropriation is homage without respect, perspective and energy. You can feel it instantly.

“BILLIONAIRES ARE THE RICHEST THEY’VE EVER BEEN SO NO, I DON’T THINK THEY’RE TIRED OF ‘LUXURY FASHION’. THEY’RE TIRED OF NOT BEING A PART OF SOMETHING”
Xylk Lorena

In recent years, we've seen a trend of established fashion brands collaborating with emerging talents. Do you believe this approach is more effective than taking legal action against them for copyright infringement?

A hundred per cent –  people doing their own thing without going the traditional, hierarchical route is the most organic, honest indicator of how a community is feeling. Time will always express itself through the people, especially outside of the systems built by corporations that then become super detached and disconnected from the community it claims it serves.

How did you respond to the controversy surrounding the Xylk Grocery Bag and its resemblance to the Hermès Birkin bag? How does the concept of ‘Meta Birkin’  relate to your design philosophy?

It doesn’t. I think there are huge differences between that case and what I’m doing. I hope that’s obvious. My job as a designer is to offer creative solutions and provoke thought, so that’s what I will do. 

What do you think is the role of intellectual property law in the fashion industry? How should it strike a balance between the rights of creators and consumers? 

I think we need to start accepting the fact that everything has been done; nothing is new, nothing is ours and, at the same time, everything is ours. I understand that it’s rooted in greed, a false sense of protection and control. To me, ‘intellectual property’ is an oxymoron.

In your view, what are the ethical implications of high-end fashion brands appropriating elements of streetwear and underground culture?

Everything is up for interpretation. I think the crucial part is for the audience to know the perspective of what they are consuming, the context in which it is presented and how what we indulge in impacts the community.

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"As a designer, I only follow three words: humour, emotion, aesthetic. All three words have to be incorporated in some way into everything I do"

As a Filipino designer, how does your heritage influence your creative process, and how do you incorporate it into your designs?

As a designer, I only follow three words: humour, emotion, aesthetic. All three words have to be incorporated in some way into everything I do. As a Filipino, I just gotta stay proud. Ultimately, if I do my job properly, you’ll be able to see and feel who I am and where I come from, based on the products and concepts.

"Time will always express itself through the people, especially outside of the systems built by corporations that then become super detached and disconnected from the community it claims it serves," says Lorena 

"I think the crucial part is for the audience to know the perspective of what they are consuming, the context in which it is presented and how what we indulge in impacts the community" Image: Instagram.com/double3xposure

What advice would you give to young designers who are inspired by your work and want to navigate the complexities of intellectual property law in the fashion industry?

I don’t think I have any helpful advice but I do believe that if you’re truly a creator, you’ll create. Especially if it scares you. Especially if it makes you uncomfortable. Especially if you’re rooted in purpose and self-love. And, to be honest, as someone who runs on all of it, there’s nothing anyone can say to them. They’ll do whatever it is to make it happen.  

Beyoncé mentioned in a song that her Birkin bag is in “storage” and she's using her Telfar instead. What does this say about the current state of luxury fashion? 

That it’s terminally ill. 

Do you think people are tired of luxury fashion and seeking more affordable options?  

Billionaires are the richest they’ve ever been so no, I don’t think they’re tired of ‘luxury fashion’. They’re tired of not being a part of something. 

How do you plan on evolving your brand and staying relevant in the ever-changing fashion industry? 

I have no idea. I guess you’ll have to tune in.

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