In 2020, when Sally Rooney’s well-received novel Normal People got a steamy, small-screen adaptation, what got the internet buzzing was the silver chain that Paul Mescal’s character Connell Waldron wears on the show. Connell’s chain had its own fan following, with its own hashtag on Twitter and an Instagram account too, with more than 150,000 followers lusting after this simple piece of jewellery on Mescal’s collarbone. But it wasn’t just this chain that was popular around that time. When season three of Succession released in 2021, an unlikely source of fashion inspiration came through Kendall Roy (played by Jeremy Strong) and his oversized chain by LIZWORKS and Rashid Johnson that he was seen wearing in multiple episodes.
This interest in men’s jewellery may seem sudden, but the idea of men wearing jewellery has always been around. It’s thanks to the pandemic-infused confinement of two years that these on-screen characters quickly became fashion icons. As the gender lines have started to blur, jewellery, which has conventionally been considered as women's accessories, is now finding its way into men’s wardrobe.
Celebrities like Harry Styles and Jared Leto often show off their personalities through accessories. Image: Getty
Bhavya Ramesh's handcrafted silver jewellery is inspired by the bohemian Banjara culture of India
Love Letter's beaded necklaces are often seen on the cool kids of Bollywood, like Ishaan Khattar and Siddhant Chaturvedi
“Right now, while men are more particular about wanting chunky pieces,” says Arushi Parakh
“The digital era has given a new definition to masculinity which is not limited to a rough, rugged look,” says Shruti Sharma
In terms of numbers, according to a market survey report conducted by Statista in 2020, the global luxury jewellery market amounted to about €22 billion, with China having the largest share, followed closely behind by the United States of America and India. Not surprisingly, China and India were the top two countries in the world that buy the most amount of gold, according to a Business Insider article from 2016. This seems like a fair assessment, considering India’s obsession with large-scale weddings and investing in gold jewellery for most brides. While the last few decades have seen jewellery as a typically feminine accessory, this sensibility is now slowly changing. “The digital era has given a new definition to masculinity which is not limited to a rough, rugged look,” says Shruti Sharma, one half of Jaipur-based fine jewellery label Kiri Kiri.
With celebrities like Harry Styles, Timotheé Chalamet, Shawn Mendes and Jared Leto incorporating pearl necklaces, silver bracelets and chunky rings in their outfits, the possibilities of showing off their personalities through accessories has opened up for men. And it’s not just the international stars, but Bollywood actors like Ranveer Singh and Vicky Kaushal are also spotted regularly wearing necklaces with their T-shirts. Sharma believes that it’s this representation that has given men the confidence to experiment with jewellery more.
Anmol Vaswani, founder of jewellery label Love Letter, agrees with Sharma. “In this age of inclusivity, the acceptance of any gender dressing outside of the one that typically defined them is making everybody experiment more and take risks with their wardrobes,” says Vaswani, whose strings of beaded necklaces are often seen on the cool kids of Bollywood like Ishaan Khattar and Siddhant Chaturvedi. As the traditional rules of masculinity and femininity are gradually broken down piece by piece, particularly among the youth, both men and women are now looking to buy jewellery that was previously perceived to be exclusive to one gender.
A quick online search for pictures of the ancient history of India will lead you to visuals of maharajas and Mughal emperors decked up in strings of pearls and jewels, be it around their necks or adorning their turbans and head-dresses. You probably won’t see men dressed up like that anymore, unless it’s a traditional Indian wedding and they happen to be the groom. In the 1990s and 2000s, you’d probably remember rappers adorned in extravagantly blingy jewellery, be it chains, earrings, medallions, mouth grills and even tooth caps, all of which were synonymous to hip-hop culture, as a symbol of their status and wealth.
It's not just international celebrities, but even Bollywood actors like Ranveer Singh are spotted regularly wearing necklaces and earring. Image: Instagram.com/ranveersingh
Fine jewellery label Kiri Kiri's minimal style of jewellery caters to all genders
Fine jewellery label Kiri Kiri's minimal style of jewellery caters to all genders This opulence and grandeur is now down to minimal chains, rings and stud earrings, in silver, diamonds or gold. “Right now, while men are more particular about wanting more chunky pieces, the designs themselves are minimal,” says Arushi Parakh, founder of contemporary jewellery label Melt. According to Bhavya Ramesh, whose handcrafted silver jewellery is inspired by the bohemian Banjara culture of India, this trend is a reflection of our time. “It's interesting to see the kind of awareness and openness that has brought these changes and trends,” says Ramesh.
If you’re a man and hesitant to include fashion jewellery into your everyday look, Vaswani suggests starting with bracelets. “It’s easy to incorporate bracelets because most men already wear watches, so it’s not a foreign feeling,” she says. When it comes to colours, Vaswani feels that men still want to play it safe. “While they’re still taking a no-risk route with colour, I would love to see my male customers get into the yellows and pinks instead of just blacks and whites.”
When it comes to design, Parakh foresees men getting experimental with jewellery. “Jewellery is a great way for men to express themselves. If you’re wearing something basic and put on some jewellery, it instantly becomes more individualistic,” she advises. Until now, while women had all the fun with jewellery, maybe it’s time for men to take a cue and join in.