The backdrop of Christian Dior’s Spring/Summer 2022 couture show celebrated the work of two Indian artists—Madhvi and Manu Parekh. Large-scale, hand-embroidered textile panels were installed throughout the show at Musee Rodin in Paris. The installations featured needle-weaving techniques wherein layers of raw jute threads were finely combed and woven with small needle-point stitches to create depth and texture. “The collective vision for this collaboration along with Maria Grazia Chiuri (the creative director of Dior women’s collections) and these artists was to create an immersive experience that celebrates the culture of craftsmanship and the interconnection between us all,” says Karishma Swali, co-founder of Chanakya Designs—a Mumbai-based embroidery atelier who made this a reality. “This collaboration with the artists aims to overcome the division between art and craft, invoking a shared language between the two,” she adds. This isn’t the first time Swali and her atelier has worked with an international brand. Their portfolio boasts of working with the likes of Balenciaga, Etro, Prada and Saint Laurent, among others.
India is known for its numerous techniques of embroideries and exquisite craftsmanship, which is tapped by major luxury brands. Chanakya Designs is one of the many ateliers who are the mediators between Indian artisans and international brands. But as these luxury labels strut their designs on runways across the globe every season, why is this connection with Indian artisans usually kept under the wraps? We speak to a few Indian ateliers to find some answers.