With consumerism and capitalism having designers and brands into a chokehold, where is the space for originality in fashion?
Imitation, it is said, is the best form of flattery. The fashion industry is not new to the idea of imitation, especially with ready-to-wear collections. Coco Chanel famously said,“If you want to be original, be ready to be copied.” Incidentally, in 2015, Chanel was accused of plagiarising a small Scottish knitwear designer Mati Ventrillon for copying her designs. In 2021, Instagram account @dietsabya slammed designer and content creator Sonaakshi Raaj for wearing an outfit that was very similar to the Jean Paul Gaultier dress that Bella Hadid wore at Cannes in 2021. Last year, American fashion brand Ralph Lauren was called out by Beatriz Gutierrez, the wife of the president of Mexico and head of a cultural affairs commission, for plagiarising indigenous designs.
While Instagram accounts like @diet_prada and @dietsabya are dedicated to calling out copycat designs, has the concept of ‘originality’ blurred into the idea of ‘inspired from’? We spoke to three designers to understand what it means to be ‘original’ in the times of cyclical trends.
/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-02/af91df09-eae3-4129-9f73-de612c8a660b/270018645_998982567370617_1913861506254126223_n.jpeg)
While Instagram accounts like @diet_prada and @dietsabya are dedicated to calling out copycat designs, has the concept of ‘originality’ blurred into the idea of ‘inspired from’? Image: Instagram.com/dietsabya
Is ‘originality’ a myth?
In aninterview with Vestoj magazine, Miuccia Prada spoke about lack of authenticity in the fashion industry. “Authenticity is an original thought, a concept or idea. For a fashion designer it would be someone who invented something that other people go on to copy. But nobody actually cares about authenticity anymore, about who did something first, second or third. Today we have a copy of a copy of a copy. As a concept, it’s not relevant anymore,” she said.
With the exception of couture, where the goal is not to sell but to showcase the extent of a designer’s creativity, much of what we see on ready-to-wear runway collections and on shelves has already been done and sold several times over. This raises the question if originality has taken a backseat as the two big Cs—consumerism and capitalism—have the designers and brands into a chokehold. While the industry moves towards a technologically-charged future with the use of Artificial Intelligence (AI) and innovations, fashion’s hold on the past is very strong.
Saaksha Bhat—one half of the designing duo Saaksha & Kinni, who are known for their bohemian prints and draped silhouettes—believes that when it comes to fashion, true originality is a concept that is difficult to define. “Almost everything has already been done, and done with a change in a hundred different ways. Especially in an era where you can browse through thousands of silhouettes, prints, and colour combinations in a matter of minutes, it is exceptionally hard to come up with something that is truly unique and one of a kind,” she says.
History has a way of repeating itself, especially in an industry like fashion that thrives on the glory of the past, as Rhea Bhattacharya, the founder of clothing label Drawn, points out. “A lot of it has to do with the comfort of something familiar and playing your greatest hits with the market being so volatile,” she says. “While most big brands and design houses look at the past for inspiration, there are definitely those who are working towards creating something unique and fresh,” she adds. Bhattacharya started her label in 2020 to provide timeless wardrobe pieces with a twist in the form of limited-edition prints and trans-seasonal standout statement pieces, while working with upcoming artists and illustrators.
/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-02/79b5ca22-c2cb-447b-81d3-15b0c0914f50/Kajol_in_Saaksha___Kinni_s_Saree_dress.jpeg)
Kajol in Saaksha & Kinni
/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-02/c008a177-1aaa-4ea0-b938-95a97d283f8b/Siddhant_Agrawal.jpg)
“Creativity is dynamic; it evolves with time and the demand that comes with it. Creating original styles is of no use if there’s no market for it," says New Delhi-based designer Siddhant Agarwal
For New Delhi-based designer Siddhant Agarwal, it is a challenge to channel your originality in a market that predominantly sells clothes and accessories that are trending at the moment. “Creativity is dynamic; it evolves with time and the demand that comes with it. Creating original styles is of no use if there’s no market for it. Every silhouette and style has to relate with the audience. Keeping a creative eye, while producing pieces that the consumers resonate with, is key,” says Agarwal, who established his eponymous label in 2019 and explores multi-dimensional aspects of tailoring to create pieces that are structured, minimal and modern.
/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-02/59b03c58-642f-453f-973e-77159dd73281/Sobhita_Dhulipala_in_Saaksha___Kinni_s_saree_dress.jpeg)
Sobhita Dhulipala in Saaksha & Kinni
Raghul
Recycled trends
A number of trends we see today have been recycled from the past. The recent revival of Y2K trends like low-rise jeans, mesh tops, small shoulder bags and even dad sneakers are proof enough. “The fashion industry revolves around inspiration and inspiration guides creation of new ideas which are reflective of what already exists,” says Agarwal. “As a clothing label, we derive inspiration from different cultures, emotions and experiences amalgamated into techniques; the fashion industry is driven by everyone’s own interpretation of the trends.”
For Bhat, revisiting the past is a way to be more experimental. “It can be so fulfilling to take an iconic style and reinvent it by making it more contemporary,” she says. Bhat has reinterpreted the traditional pleated saree into a dress that has been seen on actresses like Sobhita Dhulipala, Kajol, Mira Kapoor and Radhika Apte.
While this individualistic interpretation of trends may help explain the retro mania that the industry holds on to, it also makes it harder to have its own unique, identifiable period in fashion history.
/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-02/d582d79f-9f72-43cf-b2a7-9bf9b6cdb733/Richa_Kashelkar_s__Passengers_of_the_Realm__painted_dress_by_Drawn.jpg)
“A lot of it has to do with the comfort of something familiar and playing your greatest hits with the market being so volatile,” says Rhea Bhattacharya, the founder of clothing label Drawn
MEHAK SINGHAL
/established/media/post_attachments/theestablished/2023-02/e681f6ed-9418-44ec-b1a2-a7a4438197e0/Siddhant_Agarwal_2.jpeg)
“The fashion industry revolves around inspiration and inspiration guides creation of new ideas which are reflective of what already exists,” says Agarwal
Selling originality in the age of social media
Social media has changed the way we consume trends, with 59 per cent of the world’s population being on social media platforms for an average of two-and-a-half hours every day (as surveyed by Global WebIndex). The Internet has made it immensely accessible and easy to instantly buy the same bag that Kendall Jenner was spotted with or wear the same outfit that Katie Holmes was photographed in while running errands. There are multiple Instagram accounts that share details of the exact pieces of clothing popular influencers like Hailey Bieber, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski were seen wearing. Websites like Who What Wear and Refinery29 even draw up a list of cheaper alternatives you can buy to look and dress like your favourite celebrity.
But has the instant access to information, references and pictures made us lazy to seek and pursue originality without aping others or older trends? “We are definitely in an age where trendy sells, simply because of the power of influencers and celebrities. Once a consumer sees a particular style on their favourite blogger or actor, sales will skyrocket,” says Bhat. “However, that is not to say that there is no place for originality. Most fashion enthusiasts love the idea of making something their own by adding their quirk and personality into their wardrobe,” she adds.
“FASHION WILL ALWAYS REFERENCE THE PAST, BUT IT'S IMPORTANT FOR US TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RESEARCH, REFERENCE, REINVENTION AND REGURGITATION”
Rhea Bhattacharya
But where does originality stand when designers want to share their unique vision in a way that is commercially viable? Does originality sell? Agarwal thinks so. “Originality definitely sells; moreover, it’s the USP of each designer. And social media has made it possible for designers to create a buzz and push their original work out to the masses with just a click,” he says.
Bhattacharya, too, happens to agree with Agarwal. “Originality always sells, but once it becomes viral, it will no longer be original. People will, however, always remember who did it first,” she says.“Fashion will reference the past, but it's important for us to know the difference between research, reference, reinvention and regurgitation. The market is so cluttered right now, every day there is a new brand or designer launching a collection. Now is the time to take a step back, understand what makes you stand out and what you bring to the table,” she concludes.
Also Read: Is Instagram Stories changing the way pre-loved fashion is sold?
Also Read: These South Asian creatives are claiming their place in the international fashion industry
Also Read: Does Gen Z wear Y2K trends better than the Y2K generation?