FASHION

How designer Ashdeen Lilaowala keeps reviving Parsi gara embroidery with his designs

By Saloni Dhruv

25 August, 2022

The textile designer talks about his newly opened store in Mumbai, his Elizabeth Taylor-inspired collection and his ongoing efforts to keep the Parsis gara embroidery alive

Ashdeen Lilaowala has spent a better part of his life working towards the revival of the Parsi gara—a traditional form of embroidery adopted by the Parsi community, which dates back to the early 19th century. Ten years since the launch of his eponymous label in 2012, Lilaowala has become synonymous with hand-embroidered sarees whose designs are inspired by oriental and Persian techniques and craftsmanship, with motifs of flora and fauna. As a textile designer and a proud Zoroastrian, Lilaowala’s extensive research on the traditional and vanishing craft of Zoroastrian kusti-weaving has led to a book called Threads of Continuity–The Zoroastrian Craft of Kusti Weaving (2013).

Although based in New Delhi, the designer returns to his roots by opening his first flagship store in his hometown of Mumbai, drawing inspiration from his art- and architecture-filled walks down the streets of Marine Drive, Colaba and Fort. On the eve of his store opening, we caught up with the designer to talk more about his new space, his ongoing work towards reviving Parsi gara embroidery and his muse Elizabeth Taylor.

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Ashdeen Lilaowala has become synonymous with hand-embroidered sarees whose designs are inspired by oriental and Persian techniques and craftsmanship. Image: Instagram.com/srinath_rao88

How does it feel to be back to Mumbai with your new (and first) store in the city?

I was born in Mumbai (then Bombay) and spent my impressionable years in the city, before heading to National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad to study textile design, followed by setting up my brand in New Delhi. My parents still live in Mumbai and it's home before it's anything else. A flagship store in Mumbai was always on the cards as the Parsi gara also has a history in the city. The question was when and where, and I am delighted that it has finally happened in the best way possible.

The designer returns to his home base, giving Mumbai its very own handcrafted Parsi gara experience

The store is done up in pastel colours with gold accents as a subtle nod to the district’s Art Deco movement

Your store takes inspiration from Mumbai’s Art Deco movement. How has it influenced you to incorporate elements into your store?

Mumbai is believed to have the most number of Art Deco buildings in the world after Miami. As with any art or architecture movement, I am thrilled that there is renewed interest in Art Deco and conserving the rich heritage of Art Deco buildings in the city. Growing up in South Mumbai was a treat to an art, architecture and design fiend like me. I loved walking up and down the streets of Marine Drive, Colaba and Fort, taking in the various iconic Art Deco apartments, public buildings and theatres; they have been an important influence in developing my own aesthetic. For our flagship store in Mumbai, I am thrilled to have found a space in the midst of Colaba’s heritage district and to have collaborated with interior designer Ali Baldiwala of Baldiwala Edge to integrate Art Deco-inspired lines, colours and finishes into the experience.

As a designer you have dedicated your life to reviving traditional Parsi gara embroidery. How do you make a traditional craft relevant even today?

Our endeavour at ASHDEEN has been to keep the core essence of the Parsi gara embroidery tradition alive while innovating in terms of applications, through which we have been able to engage with younger generations of both Parsi and non-Parsi wearers. This specifically translates as stylised application of motifs, a colour palette fine-tuned to suit modern tastes and the use of lighter, more wearable fabrics. We have also extended the application to clothing pieces like lehengas, salwar suits, dupattas and stoles and accessories like purses and potlis. We do this through styling explored via campaign imagery and shoots and collaborations with style makers and influencers too.

“IN THE PROSPERITY OF THE ARTISANAL COMMUNITY LIES THE TRUE PROSPERITY OF OUR COUNTRY.”
Ashdeen Lilaowala

For his first flagship store in Mumbai, Ashdeen Lilaowala is thrilled to have found a space in the midst of Colaba’s heritage district

Besides Parsi gara work, is there any other form of traditional craft you would want to focus your attention on?

Embroidery is my first love. But I'll never do anything for the sake of it. A lot of research goes into every endeavour of mine. If I am able to make the time to research another form of traditional embroidery and see where that takes me, why not. I never say never.

Your most recent festive collection is inspired by Elizabeth Taylor. What is your fascination with this Hollywood legend that led to creating an entire collection inspired by her?

Our Festive 2022 collection taps into Elizabeth Taylor’s influence on my life and my design aesthetic. In many ways she was the first true blue global superstar. It was not only her elegance and beauty that inspired me, but also her activism for the LGBTQIA community, her contribution to cinema and her resilience over the years.

The festive collection is inspired by Elizabeth Taylor's influence on the designer's life and aesthetic

As a nod to his heritage, the designer created a line of classic gara saris, with elegant borders in a gem-stone inspired colour palette

As a textile designer, you’ve collaborated with Ekaya in the past and most recently with Kanakavilla. How do these collaborations push you towards experimentation as a creative?

With each of these collaborations—whether it’s Ekaya where we innovated with the Benarasi weave or Kanakavalli where we integrated Parsi gara embroidery into the Kanjivaram fold—I learn something new about the possibilities this rich embroidery tradition offers. The process of going to the drawing board and developing new designs is endlessly inspiring to a creative soul like me.

How do you keep challenging yourself?

I enjoy the challenge of pushing the Parsi gara tradition in new directions while making sure we stick to the basic framework. This has taken years of research into how the gara has evolved with time, given the myriad geographical and cultural influences it has imbibed. I find it thrilling to be part of the next frontier of gara embroidery, incorporating new nuances every season, telling new stories and sparking new conversations.

How can one, at an individual and sustainable level, support handloom designers and keep the art alive?

The Parsi gara craft is intrinsically sustainable. At ASHDEEN we create saris to be treasured for life and passed down through the generations. Besides, by keeping this craft alive in a sustainable manner, we are supporting a team of about 300 artisans to not only earn their livelihoods but also encourage entrepreneurship among them. In the prosperity of the artisanal community lies the true prosperity of our country. I am glad that our long-term patrons recognise this and we have textile and embroidery lovers from across the country as well as from overseas supporting us.

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