A typical head of hair has approximately 1,00,000 to 1,50,000 strands and 50 to 100 fall out daily. This is a normal, natural part of the hair growth cycle among human beings and does not contribute to hair loss in a way that should be a cause for alarm. But when hair fall outweighs hair growth, you’re likely to notice the gap at some point. This increased pace in hair fall in medical terms is known as ‘alopecia’, or simply, hair loss. There are many reasons why this could happen. Over 80 per cent of men and almost half of women experience significant hair loss in their lifetime. But why are men more prone to it than women? What can they do about it? And do promises of potions that promote the sprouting of fresh, new hair from follicles long dead hold truth?
Hair loss can occur due to a combination of complications—male hormones, genetic conditions, medical issues, poor nutrition, stress and lifestyle habits. While hair fall can be due to many reasons including poor nutrition, stress, illness, poor scalp care and damage to the hair, explains cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Kosmoderma Clinics, Dr Chytra V Anand, male pattern baldness is genetically predetermined. So you’re more likely to experience hair loss if your father did too. Hair loss can, unfortunately, be passed down, and if you’re inclined to male pattern baldness based on your genes, you’re not immune to all the other reasons that may aggravate the condition.
But why does it occur in the first place? Ironically, the same androgen, or sex hormone, that gives men their male sex characteristics like body hair, could also lead to loss of hair on the head sooner than anticipated. “Men are prone to a condition known as androgenic alopecia,” says Anand. This happens due to the body’s response to DHT, or dihydrotestosterone, an offshoot of the male hormone testosterone. It is also the most potent among all androgens. Higher levels of DHT can dampen the growth cycle of your hair by shrinking the hair follicle that produces and protects the root of your hair.
“DHT causes thinning of blood vessels at the root of the hair which leads to reduced nourishment. Hence the hair thins out and eventually stops growing, leading to hair loss,” explains Anand. Due to the increased production of testosterone in men, their capability to produce DHT is also higher, resulting in a higher risk of them facing male pattern baldness. Excessive DHT can directly attack the hair follicles and block the transfer of essential nutrients and blood they need to grow new hair. An imbalance of these hormones can make hair follicles extremely sensitive to them, causing the follicle to deteriorate and stop producing more hair.
If you’re not sure whether you’re experiencing male pattern baldness or what stage you might be at, cosmetic dermatologist Dr Soma Sarkar recommends identifying the gravity of the situation through the Norwood Scale, which defines the seven stages of hair loss.
Today, there isn’t a dearth of products in the market promising hopes of a lush, healthy head of hair. What’s lacking is the user’s awareness of the reality of how these products work. No topical application has the power to stop DHT’s attack on the follicles or reverse its effects. Oils are for nourishment and meant to be applied to the scalp.
“While we see hair oils today with actives being touted for hair fall or thinning, the claims are unsubstantiated,” says Anand. Hair oils, however, work in their own way. They may help reduce future hairfall by working towards scalp health, but they cannot stop or control it. When it comes to serums, Anand explains that the OTC ones with mild strength may help early stages of hair fall, while drug-level serums which are more potent and medicated may work towards reversing hair fall and thinning. Supplements, however, help to overcome deficiencies that may be causing hair loss and are essential for hair health. “Hair health is about nourishment, hormones and genetics,” says Anand, “Multi-vitamins, minerals and proteins are critical for this.” She adds that supplements like biotin help in combination if there is a dietary issue, but not in hormonal hair fall.
Start by getting your scalp and hair health diagnosed by an expert to determine the root causes. Sarkar suggests looking into therapies like low light therapy, stem cell therapy, growth factor infusions or PRP (platelet-rich plasma) but warns that they need to be done in conjunction with your medical prescription. “You cannot just have one of these therapies and get the hair back. You have to also resort to medication to see better results,” she says. If there is genetic predisposition then oral tablets like finasteride are prescribed by doctors to suppress the androgenetic influence on hair thinning and hair loss, adds Anand.
Sarkar also reminds us that while there are treatments in different forms like oral medication and topical solutions in many medical variations to treat hair loss, a male patient takes almost a year or more to see good results. “Once you start the medication, you will start seeing the results in three months, but male pattern baldness is something which is also going to keep occurring.” She advises being patient and persistent with the treatment prescribed by your doctor.
“Prescriptive medicine works by reducing DHT levels and taking away the sensitivity of the scalp to DHT, in the form of tablets or lotions,” explains Anand. As long as the medicine is in your system, it works. Once you stop taking it, the hair fall starts. Non-prescription medication does the latter only, and is helpful in early stages and mild cases only. For a more permanent solution, people opt for hair transplant surgeries that can be invasive and cost a lot of money, and require multiple sessions.
“WHILE WE SEE HAIR OILS TODAY WITH ACTIVES BEING TOUTED FOR HAIR FALL OR THINNING, THE CLAIMS ARE UNSUBSTANTIATED”-Dr Chytra V Anand
While hair loss may be inevitable, certain lifestyle habits can help enhance the health of your scalp and keep hormones balanced, thus promoting healthy hair growth. Eat a protein-rich diet, says Sarkar, and cut down on refined flour, dairy and sugar. Ensure your hair nutrition is met with multivitamins, minerals and iron. Treat any deficiencies early. Often ignored reasons for hair loss, stress and lack of sleep can obstruct the body’s healing process. When it comes to everyday products, stick to shampoos and conditioners that are sulphate- and paraben-free, and stay away from heat products. And if at all you realise there is too much dandruff in your scalp, get it treated, because that, too, says Sarkar, could be the reason for your hair fall.