BEAUTY & GROOMING

Kasturi manjal is perhaps Ayurveda’s best-kept secret for good skin

By Ria Bhatia
18 November, 2022

From basic staples like aloe vera to more strategic mixes like turmeric and sandalwood, Ayurveda has imparted endless traditional beauty secrets, and kasturi manjal is one of the relatively lesser-known ones

Turmeric has been the gold standard in traditional Ayurvedic beauty for centuries. Packed with antifungal, antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, the antioxidant-rich ingredientenriched with curcuminhas scientifically proven to be beneficial. As a result, the spice is everywherefrom meals to face packs, originally known as ubtans. The significance of the ingredient can be gauged from the fact that an eponymous haldi ceremony prevails in many Indian communities as a pre-wedding ritual. Moreover, haldi doodh, christened as ‘turmeric latte’ by the West, has, more often than not, come to the rescue during an episode of common flu. That’s how beneficial turmeric is.

Meanwhile, kasturi manjal (wild turmeric) is much like turmeric but with more potent beauty benefits, albeit not ingestible. “Kasturi manjal is similar to turmeric but a different member of the Curcuma genus family. Known as wild turmeric, its scientific name is ‘Curcuma Aromatica’. It is used in Ayurveda for aromatic ubtans and also for its medicinal properties but never for cooking,” says Kavita Khosa, founder, Purearth and author of Beauty Unbottled: Timeless Ayurvedic Recipes and Rituals

Vasudha Rai is a fan of  kasturi manjal powder from Clave. Based out of Kerala, the brand offers all things natural and organic, making it a value-adding pick for your beauty rituals. Whip up a face mask with honey, yoghurt or aloe—it won’t disappoint

The kasturi manjal powder from Shesha Ayurveda—from Kerala—is easy to use, affordable and versatile. While the one pictured here is the yellow variant, the brand also offers white kasturi manjal

To obtain kasturi manjal, the plant's roots are separated from the crop (that usually matures in 7-8 months) and then pulverised for various uses. “Kasturi manjal is widely grown and cultivated in Bhutan, Myanmar, Nepal and Sri Lanka,” shares Dr Ipsita Chatterjee, an Ayurvedic expert. Closer home, it is widely grown in the eastern Himalayas and in south India, native to Tamil Nadu. One can also find abundant kasturi manjal in Karnataka, Kerala, West Bengal and some parts of Maharashtra, says Chatterjee.

Kasturi manjal explained 

With more and more brands incorporating Ayurvedic ingredients into their beauty products, kasturi manjal, too, is gaining widespread recognition. Subsequently, the awareness, demand and accessibility of the ingredient have inflated. Beauty editor and authorVasudha Rai says the difference between turmeric and kasturi manjal is that“it is much gentler (less heaty) and more brightening than turmeric.” She elaborates, “One of the ways to identify kasturi manjal is through its fragrance; in its purest form, it smells like camphor. It’s also not  as yellow as turmeric.” Chatterjee says “Its [kasturi manjal] flavour is bitter, pungent, and camphoraceous, complemented by a strong, musky scent.” While elaborating on the various types of  kasturi manjal, Dr Gunvant Yeola, an Ayurvedic expert, explains, “There are prominently four varieties of Curcuma. First, haridra or Curcuma Longa; amragandhi haridra or Curcuma Amada; krishna haridra or black turmeric; and vana haridra or Curcuma Auromatica. Of these, amragandhi haridra and vana haridra are kasturi manjal. In Maharashtra, amragandhi haridra is considered as kasturi manjal while in Tamilian homes it is vana haridra.” Chatterjee says the ingredients has many monikers, “Bono haldi (in Odiya), kasturi pasupu (in Telugu), kattumanjal, kattumannar or pullakizhangu (in Malayalam) and ran-haldi (in Marathi).”


The benefits

 Explaining the many benefits of kasturi manjal, Chatterjee says, “The bioactive compounds in the plant are known for their anti-cancerous, anti-obesity, anti-acne, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, anti-diabetic and wound-healing properties. It is used in traditional medicine as an external application for curing skin diseases, sprains, bruises and improves skin complexion and texture. Speaking of its beauty advantages, kasturi manjal treats skin ailments and is used traditionally to cure acne, acne scars, eczema, pigmentation, dark circles and pimples as well as for improving skin glow and radiance. It is also used in native perfumeries.”

“THE BIOACTIVE COMPOUNDS IN THE PLANT ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR ANTI-CANCEROUS, ANTI-OBESITY, ANTI-ACNE, ANTIOXIDANT, ANTI-INFLAMMATORY, ANTI-ALLERGIC, ANTI-DIABETIC AND WOUND-HEALING PROPERTIES”
Ipsita Chatterjee

To obtain kasturi manjal, the plant's roots are separated from the crop (that usually matures in 7-8 months) and then pulverised for various uses. Image: Unsplash

While Rai believes in  kasturi manjal’s brightening, clearing and radiance-boosting qualities, Khosa says, “Kasturi manjal’s key properties include laghu (light) and ruksha(dry). Its taste or rasa is tikta (bitter) and katu (pungent). Its veerya (potency or active state) is ushna (hot) and vipaka (post-digestive effect) is katu. This makes it an excellent detoxifying, purifying, clarifying and brightening herb that lends lustre and radiance to all complexions. It is especially beneficial for pitta skin types (skin that is easily aggravated by heat) and acne-related issues and pigmentation.”


Incorporating it in your beauty routine

Kasturi manjal is traditionally mixed with red sandalwood powder and water to form a paste that is used for inflammatory discolourations,” says Yeola. “It is available at local markets, and online as well. Check for the fragrance.” He recommends using fresh herbs by pulverising them. Rai says the ones available in the market aren’t that adulterated (besides being amalgamated with turmeric, at the most) because kasturi manjal—unlike turmericisn’t globally recognised as a superfood yet.

The burgundy-hued Tejasvi Brightening Emulsion from Forest Essentials is perfect for a facial massage. Packed with rich ingredients like saffron, ghee, sweet almond oil and kasturi manjal, the balm melts into the skin like butter, assuring smooth movements for a good 10-15 minutes of lymphatic drainage, before you wash it off with cold water. What unfolds is brighter, plump and supple skin

"Kasturi manjal is best used as a lepa (with water) on skin covered with acne. For hyperpigmentation, mix it up with milk for external application. By combining it with sandalwood and powdered palash flowersalso known as the ‘Flame of the Forest’and milk, kasturi manjal is a potent remedy to fade a  tan," says Dr Gunvant Yeola. Image: Unsplash

Kasturi manjal is best used as a lepa (with water) on skin covered with acne. For hyperpigmentation, mix it up with milk for external application. By combining it with sandalwood and powdered palash flowersalso known as the ‘Flame of the Forest’and milk, kasturi manjal is a potent remedy to fade a  tan. When combined with tulsi, neem leaves and manjishtha (Indian madder), it prevents stretchmarks during the third trimester of pregnancy,” shares Yeola. Before you askyes, it suits all skin types. “Mix it with full-fat cream or yoghurt for dehydrated skin, and if you have oily skin, mix it with aloe vera juice. You can also mix it with almond oil and use it as an ubtan for intensely pigmented areas like the knees and elbows,” Chatterjee says. 

Rai recommends using white kasturi manjal—that tingles the least and leaves zero stainsif you have sensitive skin. “My grandma would mix kasturi manjal with Mysore sandalwood and milk and smear the paste on the body as a pre-shower ritual. The softly-perfumed fragrance it leaves on your skin is heavenly,” reminisces Khosa. 

But should you be using actives (the likes of salicylic acid or retinol) and kasturi manjal (as an ubtan or cleanser) in the same routine? Rai suggests steering clear from it. “I use kasturi manjal as part of my morning routine, and other exfoliating acids like retinol at night. Given kasturi manjal’s e exfoliative properties, I only stick to hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and vitamin C after using it (in the daytime).”

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