BEAUTY & GROOMING

Forest Essentials founder Mira Kulkarni lets us in on the secrets of developing a cult following for the brand

By Ria Bhatia

17 November, 2022

Launched in 2002, India’s first luxury Ayurvedic beauty brand has been a user-favourite in the country and has already initiated the first steps towards garnering global recognition

“Forest Essentials is more than a product. It is an experience, a luxurious feeling of well-being,” quotes Mira Kulkarni, the founder of India's first indulgent Ayurvedic beauty brand in her debut book, Essentially Mira: The Extraordinary Journey Behind Forest Essentials, which was released in June this year. The brand has, over the years, become synonymous with  pure Ayurvedic formulas and homegrown ingenuity. Kulkarni firmly believes that there is definite consumerism for products that come with the promise of being sublime. Forest Essentials' prime manufacturing unit at Lodsi in Uttarakhand has embraced sustainability, ensuring a zero-carbon footprint. These characteristics exemplify Kulkarni's vision and intent, and it's safe to say that they have always progressed in the right direction.

A product of love, passion and commitment towards superior quality beauty products, backed by age-old Ayurvedic recipes and ingredients, Forest Essentials was launched in 2002, making it a year to pin in the Indian beauty industry. It was the first of its kind to combine luxurious formulas and premium packaging in the holistic interest of the consumers. Kulkarni's penchant for crafting premium scented candles set a precedent for the brand's launch. In 2000, Kulkarni hosted an exhibition to showcase ‘Candlemania’—a small range of beeswax candles—infused with herbs, pressed flowers and pure essential oils, handmade from scratch to perfection in her home. It was an instant success.

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In 2000, Kulkarni hosted an exhibition to showcase ‘a small range of beeswax candles infused with herbs, pressed flowers and pure essential oils, handmade from scratch. It was an instant success and ignited the ambition for something bigger.

This project ignited the ambition for something bigger. And the first step? Luxurious soaps—the brand's maiden product line that still thrives as one of its bestsellers. What followed was the introduction of pure, cold-pressed body massage oils in 2002, basic bath essentials in 2004 (thanks to Mr Peter Fulton, Hyatt Delhi's then General Manager who requested them for his hotel), body polishes in 2005, hair care in 2006 and the Date & Litchi Youth Formula in 2007, among other products. Forest Essentials levelled up when Estée Lauder Companies joined hands with them in 2008. From their first store at Khan Market in New Delhi to their first international store in the United Kingdom (launched this year), the Forest Essentials story has been a fascinating study of how homegrown brands could be an existential threat to more global offerings. In a conversation with The Established, Kulkarni talks about the brand's journey. 

Forest Essentials was launched in 2002, making it a year to pin in the Indian beauty industry

It was the first of its kind to combine luxurious formulas and premium packaging in the holistic interest of the consumers

Forest Essentials is two decades strong. What made you bet on Ayurveda for your brand? 

It feels very satisfying to know that Forest Essentials is now a beauty and wellness staple in India. In 2000, there was no market for freshly prepared recipes with pure ingredients based on Ayurveda; just mass-produced products which were too strongly scented and though effective, were not very pleasant to use. I had faith in my product and knew that many others like me would be happy to pay for quality. We worked with vaids or traditional Ayurvedic doctors to curate a range of products using fresh herbs, hand-pressed oils, medicinal roots, flowers and their infusions, prepared according to ancient formulations with exacting standards. Contrary to popular perception, the products found an audience and became best-sellers, giving way to a new segment, 'luxury Ayurveda,’ which had previously not been explored. 

The Ayurvedic market is booming. Are Ayurvedic beauty rituals still thriving? How does a brand like yours keep it interesting for the Gen-Z consumer, who prefers fun packaging and Instagram-friendly campaigns?

The fact that the Ayurveda market continues to see new entrants is validation enough that Ayurvedic beauty rituals are thriving. Since our inception, we have embarked on combining ancient knowledge with the kind of packaging and interface that excited users, rather than make them feel hesitant, to try Ayurvedic products. Gen-Z is more open to asking questions and forging relationships with brands than only looking at fun packaging and Insta-friendly campaigns. They are increasingly questioning not just the kind of ingredients but also a brand’s sustainability and sourcing policies and wasteful packaging. Sustainability has always been at the heart of Forest Essentials, even before it became part of mainstream conversation. Our packaging has reduced the use of plastic significantly. All our ingredients are sourced in an environmentally sound manner. Of course, the advent of the digital age has meant more active social media platforms to engage with our younger audiences.The aim is to showcase how Ayurvedic beauty as a science has been powered by women

“‘IF YOU CANNOT EAT IT, DO NOT USE IT ON YOUR SKIN,’ IS WHAT WE BELIEVE IN”
Mira Kulkarni

"The aim is to showcase how Ayurvedic beauty as a science has been powered by women over the last 6000 years is the way forward and how Forest Essentials is able to deliver effective rejuvenation through its products," says Kulkarni

Forest Essentials is deeply rooted in heritage. Could you walk us through the different stages of the formulation process—from sourcing ingredients to trials and locking in the formula?

“If you cannot eat it, do not use it on your skin,” is what we believe in. Each ingredient is fresh, pure, seasonal and proven to do what it is supposed to. Our thoughtful selection process starts with a four-step evaluation of performance, safety, sourcing and environmental impact. Each product adheres to the highest standards of purity, authenticity and quality. Everything is made traditionally, right from raw cane sugar to our steam-distilled pure oils, according to Ayurvedic tenets. Many of our bestselling products are infused with natural ingredients, sourced or extracted in their purest form and at hours of the day when they are known to be the most potent to ensure their efficacy is not lost during the long drawn process of making the products.

Purity for Forest Essentials also goes beyond using the most refined ingredients; it includes ensuring a hygienic environment where our products are manufactured. Our manufacturing base is located in the Himalayan foothills, one of earth’s most otherworldly regions. Ensuring the same environment of purity inside our workshops at Lodsi and Lohail in Uttarakhand, the making of some of our iconic products includes specific mantras chanted. At the same time, the cream is mixed by hand to lend positive vibrations to the product, which consequently energises your skin with its pure energy.

"After 15 years of meticulous research, we have added the new Transformative Soundarya Night Cream with 24 Karat Gold to the range, which combines authentic Ayurvedic wisdom with the healing energy of the moon," says Kulkarni

"Purity for Forest Essentials also goes beyond using the most refined ingredients; it includes ensuring a hygienic environment where our products are manufactured"

You've recently launched the Soundarya Night Cream, which has a fascinating backstory. Tell us about it.

Our ‘Soundarya’ range is iconic. After 15 years of meticulous research, we have added the new Transformative Soundarya Night Cream with 24 Karat Gold to the range, which combines authentic Ayurvedic wisdom with the healing energy of the moon. It is a one-of-a-kind revolutionary formula that involves adding herbs, roots and flowers into pure cold spring water, reduced to one-third of its volume, and left for several days under a full moon. The positive energy of the moon enriches the herb-infused water, further elevating its potency. This cream includes an intensive custom gold serum along with an effective skin-repairing (ingredient) complex which lends a smoother texture to the skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrates and nourishes it. The high level of serum helps create a hydration surge around the cream to retain moisture in the skin effectively. Infused with 24 Karat Gold as a natural activator along with rejuvenators like bakuchiol, concentrated hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid, the cream is absorbed into the skin for an illuminating afterglow. 

How does Forest Essentials maintain its competitive edge?

Our strategy is simple: Stick to our vision and mission without being distracted by the noise in the market. We pride ourselves on being the original interpreters of Ayurveda in the beauty industry in India. We have on board a motivated R&D team and talented branding and marketing teams; they form the company’s backbone and help articulate our values. The brand's DNA is rooted in purity and authenticity, so making that a cornerstone as you add to the range will set you apart. Over the years, our recipes and formulations have garnered a cult following, allowing us to channel the ancient knowledge of Ayurveda into products that are practical, trusted and essential to the modern consumer.

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Forest Essentials products have a cult following

You expanded internationally almost a year ago, and now you have a store launch in London. Why the move? 

We are a consumer-facing brand. So the retail concept of all our stores has been designed to reflect a true embodiment of the brand while simultaneously contemporising the space to cater to a growing global customer audience. The plan was always to launch a physical store in the United Kingdom. But when the second wave of the COVID-19 pandemic hit, we took the strategic decision of launching through an e-tailer first. We imbibed our learnings from the online launch before establishing a physical footprint. We propagate the philosophy of slowing down and being mindful—when you apply our skincare product or visit a Forest Essentials store for a personalised shopping experience with our experts. Even our packaging goes beyond its design, with the in-store ritual of gracefully wrapping products in lustrous grosgrain ribbons, scented tissue and fresh rose petals. The experience and environment we create within our standalone stores have worked very well, validating the decision to open our store in London. 

Forest Essentials launched its first global boutique store in London. Why did you feel the need for a physical footprint, despite launching a digital store last year? Who is your London consumer?

As the world witnessed the second wave of COVID-19 and went into one of the strictest lockdowns in 2021, we, as a company, were particularly affected, since most of our business is consumer-facing in India. From a psychological perspective, it was a very difficult and challenging time. With this drastic rise in online consumption and leveraging the power of our digital ecosystem, we took the strategic decision of launching through an e-tailer in the UK last year. The plan was always to launch a physical store in the UK,  and we decided to take our learnings from the online launch before establishing a physical footprint. Therefore, our launch strategies in the UK are blended towards tapping into the Indian diaspora while also reaching out to the wider international consumers. The aim is to showcase how Ayurvedic beauty as a science has been powered by women over the last 6000 years is the way forward and how Forest Essentials is able to deliver effective rejuvenation through its products.

"Many of our bestselling products are infused with natural ingredients, sourced or extracted in their purest form and at hours of the day when they are known to be the most potent to ensure their efficacy is not lost during the long drawn process of making the products," says Kulkarni

Forest Essentials pride themselves on being the original interpreters of Ayurveda in the beauty industry in India

What Ayurvedic rituals and routines allow you to be rooted in the brand?

I think Ayurveda has been a way of life in India for a lot of people, and while I was growing up, most of us followed it. We used fresh ubtans for cleansing, sundried and freshly ground daily, mixed with whole milk or yoghurt. Oil was prepared at home with herbs and roots, simmered over a slow fire, and used to massage into the hair. Simple concoctions for health and beauty were made fresh at home. I would whip up a remedy for acne, pigmentation or dry skin in the kitchen. My maternal grandmother used to place bowls of water filled with mogra flowers all around her home, and the delicate scent of the flowers would waft through the rooms. My mother always spritzed ‘Joy’ by Jean Patou on her clothes and shawls, so everything had her trademark fragrance, and you knew when she was around. I was always aware of how scents affect one’s quality of life.

What are some Forest Essentials products you’d recommend to everyone?

I use the ubtans mixed with milk for daily cleansing, the Soundarya day and night creams, the Tejasvi Emulsion for massaging, and the Ojas Beauty Balm. Oils for hair and body massages are reasonably regular.

What are the things that you are looking forward to soon? 

We are now expanding globally, and reinventing ourselves in different countries where the consumers have different concerns is fascinating. It also shows that inner and outer beauty is the most relevant worldwide.

Kulkarni believes that traditional routines and rituals provide comfort and an opportunity to slow down in our fast-paced lives

Do you have a most-loved skincare tip? 

One of my favourite rituals is the Radiance Facial. Cleanse and use the ghee-based Tejasvi Emulsion to massage into the face and neck for as long as possible; about 30 to 45 minutes is ideal. Then steam the face using a hot towel and wipe off any residue. Finally, use an ice cube to ice the face—instant radiance.  

Earlier, Indians were slow to adapt to traditional routines and rituals, for example, yoga. How has that changed recently? Why are we more willing to hold on to our heritage now more than ever?

A certain percentage of Indians have always been more inclined to traditional routines and rituals, especially the older generations. They have incorporated this as a way of life. The younger generation must bring these aspects back. Initially, we were enamoured by Western influences while they slowly adopted our ancient practices and knowledge. Life does come full circle! With our fast-paced lives, these traditional routines and rituals provide comfort and an opportunity to slow down, and many have finally realised their value. 

The beauty market in India is set to grow more significantly. But with newer, homegrown Ayurvedic brands promoting homemade rituals and science-backed/ingredient-specific products, is there space for everyone? 

Diverse consumer mindsets, choices and needs will always ensure space for everyone in the ever-expanding beauty market.

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