Are toners the holy grail or simply a fad?

Toners have been thriving for as long as we can remember, but with a slew of potent serums and nourishing moisturisers, does our skin really need the watery tonic solution every day? We investigate

Go to any Korean beauty shop, and you’re bound to spot a shelf loaded with minimally designed bottles of toners. From green  and black tea to niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, the options (and concoctions) are never-ending, leaving you spoilt for choice. Closer home, the panorama is pretty much the same. Toners have been an easy find in every beauty shop and pharmacy for over a decade now. But there’s a stark difference in the formulation, which plays a pivotal role in the relationship that your skin and a toner share. While the true-to-Korean-beauty-standards toners are packed with skin-enriching ingredients, the ones that we were exposed to typically contain high amounts of alcohol, diminishing the difference between an astringent and a toner, ultimately defeating the product’s purpose.

Many skin experts and dermatologists have declared that toners are really not that necessary in your skincare routine. The reasons are fairly simple—from non-skin-friendly formulations to impotent efficacy. But then, we’ve also come across stellar products like Pixi’s Glow Tonic, Thayers’ Rose Petal Facial Toner, Fenty Skin’s Fat Water Pore-Refining Toner and the likes that make us reconsider the product. You see, this confusion and mixed opinions can easily confound us. But we’re here to help you make an informed decision. 

What exactly is a toner?

“A toner is a liquid that helps clean the skin by removing excess oil and dead cells from its surface and shrinks the appearance of the pores. It helps to balance the pH level of the skin and restore hydration after cleansing it,” says Dr Karishma Kagodu, a cosmetic and plastic surgeon. Unlike its Y2K iterations, a good toner keeps alcohol at bay. “It is used to boost the cleansing process, and preps your skin to absorb other skincare products,” says Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, celebrity dermatologist and founder of ISAAC Luxe. Clarifying the same, Gupta says, “The Dr. G Avo Glow Mist (from her brand, Skin by Dr. G) is a mist-style toner fuelled with lactic and glycolic acids along with avocado, bamboo water extracts and Jeju aloe that supplies moisture, soothes and refreshes the skin and instantly lends it with hydration and glow. The antioxidants in it act as anti-ageing agents that revitalise and rejuvenate the skin.” She also mentions Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50, a toner-cum-lotion boasting a potent combination of AHA, BHA and PHA exfoliants like lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and gluconolactone that not only act as mild exfoliators but also cleanse and purify the epidermis.

Toners versus mists

Nowadays, many brands sell botanical mists in the name of toners. But the two are completely different. “While toners are used after cleansing to remove traces of any grime and as an astringent to close pores, mists are essentially sprays that hydrate the skin’s surface and keep it moist. They can be infused with minerals and vitamins,” explains Dr Chytra V Anand, celebrity dermatologist and founder of SkinQ.

The three skin experts reveal that toners are usually of three types: Hydrating, exfoliating and treatment-based. Hydrating toners “are suitable for all skin types but mainly for dry and sensitive skin as they boost hydration and refreshment. They contain hyaluronic acid, glycerin and vitamin E,” says Kagodu. In fact,exfoliating toners are best suited for oily skin types. “Such toners contain glycolic acid, salicylic acids, lactic acids and so forth that boost the cleansing action. It improves dullness and roughness and cleans up the pores. It also reduces signs of ageing,” says Gupta. Lastly, treatment-based toners, like the one from Biologique Recherche, are meant to target specific concerns such as texture or pigmentation. Remember, toners are leave-in products that penetrate into your skin and do something, unlike wash-off products.

Do the USPs of toners stand a chance?

Yes, absolutely. The world-famous CTM routine (that also involves a serum and sunscreen now) is proof enough. “The CTM routine forms the core of healthy skincare,” says Gupta. “A toner may not be a must-have but it is required depending on one’s skin condition, type and concerns to get healthy skin. It adds to the benefits of other products that follow.” The dermatologist also advises to factor in your skin type before choosing a toner. “From oily to dry, dull to acne-prone, sensitive to rough skin, all skin types require a toner. But oily skin certainly demands a toner as it deeply cleanses and removes dirt, oil and sebum from the skin, preventing acne breakouts. Talking about dry or sensitive skin, toners should be used cautiously as it could potentially lead to inflammation.” In conclusion, Kagodu says, “Though toners do work for all skin types, the key is to identify your skin type and choose one accordingly.”

But is a toner really needed? Not necessarily. Not even if it’s packed with good ingredients? “Toners were previously used to remove make-up and dirt residue after cleansing and balancing the skin’s pH. Most cleansers are now pH-balanced and effective at removing everything,” says Kagodu. “I wouldn’t say that a toner is entirely gimmicky but it is definitely not a necessity as its effects are very short-term. It instantly helps to tighten the pores but this is temporary,” says Gupta. Anand agrees, “Previously I did recommend using toners but now I don’t as these days skincare products have evolved—cleansers have actives and are stronger in cleansing; so toners are not really required. The only time I still recommend them is for oily skin type.” She says toners are not required anymore, especially if you include other potent serums, cleansers and creams in your routine.

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