These restaurants and food ventures are putting the spotlight on unique global culinary traditions

By Amrita Bose
13 June, 2022

These restaurants and food ventures are putting the spotlight on unique global culinary traditions

By Amrita Bose
13 June, 2022

From soupy Ladakhi Chutagi to salted egg yolk lap cheong and authentic Pondicherry sit-down meals to Brazilian Pão de Queijo, there is much on offer for the Indian diner

In Bengaluru’s Magrath Road locale, Sao Paulo’s iconic Christ the Redeemer, Bossa Nova musical instruments and vibrant toucans form the theme of a massive mural outlining the exteriors of the recently launched Boteco—Restaurante Brasileiro. Serving authentic, hearty Brazilian fare as well as some reimagined dishes, the restaurant draws inspiration from neighbourhood botecos or bars in Brazil, popular among locals for after-work catch-ups over drinks and snacks. Think deep-fried appetisers, a meat-focused menu including Churrasqueira—Brazilian-style barbeque, mega sharing platters and Cachaça-infused cocktails.

Founder Praveesh Govindan says that frequent work trips to Brazil during his stint in the United States as a mechanical engineer introduced him to the community-driven food experiences of botecos. And thus began his quest to find the right chef to greenlight his dream of opening a Brazilian restaurant in India—with the soul of botecos but a more refined menu. Fortunately, he found Guto Souza (Executive Chef & Partner), a noted chef from Brazil, right here in Goa, running his own restaurant. The fact that Souza is well versed with the Indian palette made him curate and tweak authentic Brazilian dishes that would appeal to Indians. “When we decided to cook Brazilian food here in India, I tried to make the menu as authentic as possible,” notes Souza.

Boteco—Restaurante Brasileiro serves authentic, hearty fare draws inspiration from neighbourhood botecos or bars in Brazil

The Alchi Kitchen has been attracting a steady stream of visitors since 2016, including Bollywood stars, thanks to its authentic Ladakhi menu

Brazilian cuisine can be spicy, flavoursome and its curries are cooked with coconut milk, chillies and ginger, like Indian versions. The menu offers glimpses of Souza’s mother’s recipes, such as the sublime Lemon Mousse, and Indian influences are evident in the Camarao Copacabana, prawns tossed in garlic, wine, topped with roasted tomatoes, aioli, pineapple chutney and dill, but served in mini puris inspired by Souza’s tryst with trying and loving Indian puris.

Pão De Queijo, or cheese breads made with tapioca flour and cheese makes for a really addictive snack—you just cannot stop at one. From the small plates section, the Casquinha de Siri stands out. It comprises crab meat sauteed with coconut milk, palm oil, paprika and tomatoes, baked in its shell with loads of cheese. We loved mopping up the sweet, umami crabmeat with bread. Another unique dish on the menu is the Escondidinho—home-cured, dried, salted beef layered with mascarpone, parmesan and mildly sweet pumpkin cream. “Dry beef is a traditional speciality in my home state of Minas Gerais where we either sun-dry it or cure it in sea salt. It’s a long process where the beef is first dried, then cooked in milk for a few days. It is then slow-cooked under pressure and then with aromatics before being paired with cheese and pumpkin,” he explains.

"LADAKHI CUISINE COMPLETELY RELIES ON WHEAT AND BARLEY AND A DRYING CULTURE [A NOD TO ITS NOMADIC PRACTICES"
Nilza Wangmo Lonpo

While Souza brings touches of his culinary heritage to the Boteco menu, closer home, the Godrej Food Trends Report 2022 predicts a growing awareness and pride in one’s culinary identity and heritage. It also mentions a rising interest in “mountain cuisines” of India—those of Himachal, Ladakh, Meghalaya and more.