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Do old-school haunts serving perfectly brewed, modestly priced filter coffee for generations feel threatened by new-age cafes offering the decoction?

Is there a coffee war brewing in Bengaluru?

Do old-school haunts serving perfectly brewed, modestly priced filter coffee for generations feel threatened by new-age cafes offering the decoction in many avatars?

Krishne Gowda, in charge of making coffee powder at the Lalbagh Road outlet of Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bengaluru, subjects every bean to scrutiny, roasts them over a slow flame until the seeds acquire the correct shade, grinds them to a consistency tailored to the specific filter size, and packs batches of filter coffee powder to be sent to MTR outlets across the city. MTR has been serving filter coffee since 1924, a legacy now entrenched in the fabric of the city. Coffee service begins early in the morning, and Udaya, who has been making coffee at MTR, Lalbagh Road for the last 31 years, has attuned his circadian rhythm to his job. At about 6:00 a.m., he fills the coffee powder in the upper cup of the filter and pours hot water in two stages until the lower cup is filled with brewed coffee (or decoction). When he receives an order, he adds fresh, piping hot milk, turning the deep, raw, aromatic black to a brown. In the end, just enough sugar is added to mitigate the bitterness of the coffee without producing additional sweetness.

Filter coffee is fundamentally woven into Bengaluru’s culture. It is available everywhere—at stores that sell condiments and spice mixes along with idli-vada, at darshinis, coffee houses, and hotels where it is priced between ₹12 and ₹60.  And almost everybody consumes it—generations of families, working-class folks, lawyers, government officials, poets, authors, and grassroots workers, or those who walk in with the daily newspaper to  whine about local civic matters or discuss politics, literature and culture.

Udaya has been making coffee at Mavalli Tiffin Rooms at Lalbagh Road, in Bengaluru, for the last 31 years

Udaya has been making coffee at Mavalli Tiffin Rooms at Lalbagh Road, in Bengaluru, for the last 31 years

Filter coffee is served at Mavalli Tiffin Rooms at Lalbagh Road, in Bengaluru

Filter coffee is served at Mavalli Tiffin Rooms at Lalbagh Road, in Bengaluru

“The uniqueness of filter coffee lies in the beans, the particular blend chosen, the specific roasting and grinding techniques, and the distinctive method of serving. It combines artistry and precision, deeply rooted in tradition. There’s a common notion that crafting filter coffee powder or the decoction is straightforward. While the procedure might seem simple, there are many nuances that need meticulous attention for the final product to shine,” said Arvind Maiya, managing partner of MTR. Today, they sell 1,500 cups daily at their outlet on Lalbagh Road.

Old wine, new bottle?

Bengaluru has also witnessed and welcomed a growing ubiquity of third-wave cafes in the last decade or so. These cafes focus on coffee beans, their origin, and terroir. Coffee professionals and trained baristas apply skill to draw out roast varieties and unique, complex flavours that are floral, fruity, citrusy or peppery. They largely cater to the privileged—entrepreneurs and freelancers who work out of these cafes, locked in conversation or looking into their laptops, often expressing their opinions on Instagram and Twitter (now ‘X’). While such cafes retain the essence of their third-wave philosophy about their holistic, farm-to-coffee approach, they are also tangled in a complex marketing web involving extensive wordy menus, overpriced drinks, at times gimmicky equipment, and aesthetic notions of sleek, minimalistic vibes with exposed ceilings, repurposed railway wood, free Wi-Fi and in-person communication that tries to market coffee in the same league as wine.

Tucked away in the expansive coffee menus of chains like Third Wave Coffee Roasters, Starbucks and other premium cafes in Bengaluru, you will find filter coffee too, but at a hefty price tag. While this speaks volumes about the enduring allure of filter coffee, is its engineered appearance in these specialty cafes–in order to create an immersive experience–an attempt to tap into a new customer market? 

“Filter coffee is more than just a beverage; it's an integral part of our rich coffee-drinking culture, deeply rooted in tradition and cherished rituals. At Third Wave Coffee Roasters, we take immense pride in crafting and serving this beloved brew to our customers who share a genuine love for its unique taste and cultural significance. It's a dedication to preserving and enhancing the authentic experience passed down through generations,” explains Ayush Bathwal, co-founder, Third Wave Coffee Roasters, when asked why they serve filter coffee.

You will find filter coffee in expensive cafes too, but at a hefty price tag. Image: instagram.com/thirdwavecoffeeindia

You will find filter coffee in expensive cafes too, but at a hefty price tag. Image: instagram.com/thirdwavecoffeeindia

More than just coffee 

.“The new cafés can never compete with filter coffee when it comes to      pricing and will find it challenging to attract the general population. They will restrict themselves to the metros or large tier-2 cities, mainly catering to the young, convent-educated population, and the techies in Bengaluru,” shares Diwakar Rao, proprietor of Airlines Hotel that opened in the city in 1963. “I don't view them as competition. Each type of coffee, whether fancy latte art or cold brew concoctions, appeals to its audience, and filter coffee is no exception. Both hold unique positions in the vast coffee landscape,” says Maiya.

Local coffee aficionado Akshay has been frequenting S.N. Refreshments, a small darshini in his neighbourhood with his father for the last 30 years. “Filter coffee has a frothy, comforting, homely feel. It is not just about speed and convenience but the experience of a unique atmosphere with unchanged décor and tiffin offerings. For me, this is a place of memory about coffee, the neighbourhood, the setting, who made the coffee, and who it is consumed with. I do visit the more prominent cafes for meetings or when I want to work. The baristas behind the counter talk about coffee, add-ons, and substitutes for whole milk to package and sell what I don’t want; it’s not their fault. I understand they are just doing their jobs, but where’s the genuineness?” wonders Akshay.

While the buzz around artisanal, small-batch brews continues, the crux lies in delivering a consistently good cup of coffee. “Slow-drip coffee, or South Indian filter coffee, is an old, tried-and-tested brewing method. We do not experiment with anything new in making coffee, which helps us retain consistency and depth in flavour. It remains the OG in this segment and continues to gain more followers,” says Arun Adiga, managing partner of Vidyarthi Bhavan.

“Filter coffee, if roasted and brewed well and made with the right blend of coffee beans, can be truly delicious. The primary motivation of making filter coffees is not so much a business strategy, but rather that it tastes fantastic, both as hot brews and in iced coffees,” says Arshiya Bose, founder, Black Baza Coffee. 

Filter coffee tastes good as both hot brews and in iced coffees. Image: instagram.com/thirdwavecoffeeindia

Filter coffee tastes good as both hot brews and in iced coffees. Image: instagram.com/thirdwavecoffeeindia

While the buzz around artisanal, small-batch brews continues, the crux lies in delivering a consistently good cup of coffee. Image: instagram.com/thirdwavecoffeeindia

While the buzz around artisanal, small-batch brews continues, the crux lies in delivering a consistently good cup of coffee. Image: instagram.com/thirdwavecoffeeindia

The history of coffee is often divided into waves. The first wave is that of      commodity coffee; the second involves the café culture with crafting beverages and elaborate latte artistry; and the third rise of specialty coffee with roasters taking agency by bringing the estates, growers, and baristas to the forefront. Undoubtedly, the third-wave coffee culture is brewing new undercurrents. The hip coffee brands will continue offering ‘immersive experiences’ with aggressive expansion, innovation and excitement. While some cafes pay tribute to filter coffee, some are changing the ethics, enabling smallholder coffee producers with stable livelihoods and practising farming methods that conserve biodiversity.

Not losing steam

While the new wave of coffee is exclusive to just a few, the filter coffee at these specialty cafes can never overshadow the simple pleasure of a filter coffee at the darshini counters. It invokes nostalgia, and has a unique cultural footprint. Its affordability, mass appeal, the unimposing way it is served—one that fosters inclusiveness, and its availability in numerous locations that outnumber third-wave cafes, will keep its trajectory undeterred in Bengaluru’s coffee landscape. 

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